Showing posts with label Lioness. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lioness. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Kenya - April 13th, 2008

6:30 am game drive.

The lodge has coffee and snack cakes ready. It is strong Kenyan coffee and I like it.

There is a slight chill in the air as we pass through the gate to the Mara. The coffee is working to keep us warm.

The ostrich are in force and grazing.
http://www.awf.org/content/wildlife/detail/ostrich

We observe Topi and gazelle. The reticulated giraffes have spots that are variegated and have a deeper color than the spots of the Rothschild’s giraffe.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giraffe


A herd of elephants were preparing to cross the road but paused. It was as if they were having a conference to reassure a young one that the different texture of the road surface was ok to walk on. We saw this behavior once again and the adults had to physically nudge the calf to get it to cross the road. The front legs were locked on the ground as the rear legs were lifted up in an effort to get the calf going. “I am not going to go” the baby said. The adults were very gentle in their encouragement. It is incredible to see these large and powerful animals show such a delicate touch. I asked if hunting was permitted. “Not in Kenya. Poachers are shot on sight.”

Our driver told us of an incident where some poachers shot a small herd of elephants for the tusks.
They decided to wait a few days to harvest the tusks to give the marrow some time to dry to get a better yield. They left the area and returned a week later. In the interim some lions got the scent of the carcasses and investigated. The hides were too tough for them to chew through so they waited. The eight poachers arrived and put down their rifles and began cutting the tusks off. The lions ambushed them. Park rangers found eight human skeletons a few days later. Not a shot was fired. Poaching dropped to zero for some time after that.

A hawk was in a treetop. Ostriches pecked at the ground.

We stopped and watched a secretary walking about pecking at the ground. Our driver said he was looking for snacks. We perked up thinking that a snickers bar was to be found. He meant to say “snakes.” We had a laugh about that and assured our driver that we were not making fun of his accent. His English was excellent. Our Swahili vocabulary had 5 words. We passed a lioness napping in the grass about 5 yards from the road. She did not stir from our presence. I wanted to rub her behind the ears to see if she would purr. The thought passed rather quickly however.

It was the beginning of rainy season in Kenya. April averages 10” or so. Not a big deal in Florida but the dynamics are different here. The arid land explodes with growth with just a little rain. The result is that the high grass that gives predators a good place to hide and stalk their prey. Many of the prey have figured this out and have migrated to other areas. Roads get muddy and difficult to travel rather quickly. The clay soil gets slick!
Now don’t get me wrong, we did see lots of animals in quantity and number of species.
What we did not see were a lot of were other game vehicles. That is a plus. There were others but they did not out number the animals. One advantage of the other drivers is that they all have two-way radios and if they spot something they put the word out. There was good cooperation with all of the drivers.

Back at the Mara Simba Lodge 3 of us decided to take a wander around the lodge area. The General Manager, James Koileken saw us head out and sent a staff member to give us the tour. The facility is off the grid and self contained. Our guide shows us the power building, which houses 4 generators. Due to the light guest list they were using the smallest generator. To conserve fuel the generator was shut down at regular intervals for 3 to 4 hours. After breakfast, lunch and from midnight to 4am. There was a well-equipped garage and workshop that was spotless. Two men were working on an engine that was on a lift and getting ready to go back into a vehicle. A fuel depot was on site also. The lodge has tents available in addition to the rooms we stayed in. These are not tents that you stuff into your kayak. The have solid floors, mahogany bed frames and a separate shower and toilet room. Granite countertops compliment the mahogany used for the bathroom vanities.

I can only imagine the logistics of building a place like this in the middle of nowhere. It must have been quite a construction project.

When the Mara Simba is at capacity they have a staff of 130. Now only 15 to 20 people are working. The post election violence has taken a heavy toll.

“When two elephants fight, it is the grass that suffers.”

On the afternoon game drive we saw two lionesses laying in the grass, one was outstretched on her back while the other licked her face.

Bill C. joined us for dinner again and told us some more about the “Mt. Kenya Tree Reforestation Project.”

Charcoal and firewood are the primary sources of energy in urban areas. The expanding population is straining the thinning forests. Bill and other groups have introduced fast growing trees to curtail or reverse the desertification that is occurring in some areas.

One of the most effective ways of educating the people about the advantages of conservation is to give presentations in the schools and get the children involved. Nurseries have been started on or near school grounds and children take seedlings home and tend to them. This gets the whole family involved.

I applaud Bill's efforts.

While we are having a dinner a Genet crosses one of the open beams above us.
http://www.awf.org/content/wildlife/detail/genet
The monkeys swoop the tables as soon as we leave.

We walk to the bar end of the pavilion and a large croc is on the riverbank a foot from the electric fence. I did not have my camera with me.

We turn in for the evening. Things really go bump in the night here. Mongoose rustle through the thatched roof, monkeys bang loudly on the door at 2 or 3 am. Other things stir. The power is off at this time so our small flashlights are the only source of light. It occurs to me that the electric fence around the lodge is not very effective at the moment. I make a mental note to inquire about it in the morning and fall back asleep, snoring loudly.

More to come...

Saturday, May 17, 2008

Kenya - April 11th, 2008

Click link for photos: (I am looking for a better link but this will have to do for now)

http://www.shareapic.net/content.php?id=8577193&owner=ontheroad100

Lake Nakuru, Morning Game Drive

A quick cup of coffee and we are off.

We see Giraffes, water buffalo, waterbucks, impalas, warthogs, Vervet monkeys, baboons, birds, birds and more birds. The monkeys and baboons have a lot of young and appear to be reproducing with great enthusiasm.

A zebra with a foal keeps an eye on us. The highlight of the day – we spot two lionesses on the side of a hill with a partially eaten warthog. One of the lions was carrying the carcass up the hill towards the only shade tree in the area. She would stop and drop the kill and rest for a few minutes. Two black back jackals were nearby waiting for an opportunity to salvage part of the kill. The lion rested, picked up the warthog and continued to slowly walk up the hill. Her belly was full. The other lioness did not share in the transport duty. It was an exhilarating sighting.

Back to the lodge for breakfast. Our driver was going into town for some vehicle maintenance and to pick up the cash for Kim. He offered to pick up supplies. We accepted and bucked up for wine and beer.

At some point in our travels our driver was having a conversation on his cell phone in Swahili. The only words that I could pick out were auto parts to include “Timing Belt.”

I am remiss in not learning some Swahili before the trip. I assumed that English would be the primary language since Kenya was a British Colony until 1963.

“English and Swahili are the official languages of Kenya and are thought in schools throughout the country.” Lonely Planet, Kenya, page 395.

Harrison made it back with Tuskers, wine and cash. Life is good.

Afternoon game drive – It was raining so we left the bonnet down.

http://www.kws.org/nakuru.html

We saw a white tailed mongoose. He saw us and did not stick around for a picture.

http://www.lioncrusher.com/animal.asp?animal=132

The water buffalo and zebra were a little jumpy. I think the rain muffled the sound of the van and we startled them.

Another fish eagle was on a branch surveying his domain.

We made it back to Lake Nakuru and had a better sighting of some pink flamingos and greater flamingos. We drive up to the scenic overlook Baboon Cliff. There is a covered pavilion with some picnic tables. It was raining so we did not wander off to far. Many baboons watched our every move.

Back in the valley we see a water buffalo carcass. I am surprise at how intact the skeleton is. A pair of rhino are grazing.
Two black back jackals trot by. More to come..